Lunar New Year is one of the most extravagant holidays in Chinese culture. Celebrations last over 15 days, with spring couplets bearing new year wishes adorning doorways, red envelopes bulging with money exchanging hands, performers wearing lion costumes prancing in the streets and dinner tables overflowing with dishes bringing friends and family together.
When I was a child, I would pile my plate high with dumplings, fish, Chinese pearl meatballs and lotus root. As delicious as the main course was, I always saved room for dessert. Once the sweeter dishes of the night finally emerged, my eyes would bypass the western style cakes from Publix and sliced fruit, hunting for one specific dish: Nian gao.
The first part of the dish’s name, nian, means year. The second, gao, means cake. Gao is pronounced the exact same way as the Chinese word for “high,” symbolizing the pursuit of greater heights in the new year.
While nian gao can also refer to a savory iteration of the dish made of cylindrical slices of rice cakes, my sweet tooth demands a greater interest in the dessert. According to Chinese legend, the sugary nian gao serves as an offering to the Kitchen God with the hope that its stickiness would render him unable to speak poorly about its makers in his yearly report to the Jade Emperor, who is the highest ranking god in Chinese mythology.
Although my last few Lunar New Year celebrations have been relatively halfhearted, being miles away from my family, I still make it a point to enjoy nian gao every single year. To do so, I rely on an old family recipe.
I first developed an interest in baking in my teens. Back then, my mother guided me to the thick binder in which she stored her recipes — filled to the brim with worn yellowed pages disobeying its confines. Then, she flipped to a full page that had only three lines of text on it.
In Chinese, the title described nian gao as both “good to eat and good [easy] to make.” Then, two simple sentences listed six ingredients, a recommended baking time and an oven temperature. That was all.
I could not believe it. Something so delicious was so simple.
China is a massive country filled with distinct food cultures that vary from region to region. Many Chinese households will have nian gao on their tables on Lunar New Year, but each will probably inundate your senses with different appearances and tastes.
Some people steam it, some people fry it. One of my friends even makes it in a rice cooker. Others, like my family, bake it. Some add jujube or chopped walnuts. One memorable family friend revealed that her go-to addition is a dash of lemon juice.
Despite trying my hand at a few other nian gao recipes, I still find the simple six-ingredient baked version the best. It’s vegan and gluten-free, so it’s easy to share with the people I love.
Below is my family’s recipe for those interested in trying it out for themselves. Anyone can feel free to change it up and experiment. Although there are many different ways to prepare the dish, there is only one way for all to enjoy it. 慢慢吃!
Ingredients
- 1 bag rice flour (1 lb)
- 4 eggs
- 2.5 cups milk
- 1 tbsp baking powder
- ¾ cups vegetable oil
- 1 cup sugar
Steps
- Place the ingredients together in a large bowl.
- Stir well and pour into a greased pan.
- Bake at 350 degrees for 30-40 minutes.
- Enjoy!