Catching the perfect wave is a feeling that some surfers chase all their lives. This documentary looks at surfing in ways you may never have considered, including the brain chemistry involved with an obsession with surfing.
What is the difference between a habit, a compulsion and a lifestyle? The dopamine hit you get from a great ride can be similar to when a gambler gets a big win. The social experience of hanging out at a surf shop like E.T. Surf can draw people in even if it’s been decades since they actually rode a wave.
According to one diehard surfer, it’s something you absolutely have to experience to understand.